Understanding the Kimono
Kimonos are traditionally made from a single bolt of fabric called a tan. Tan come in standard dimensions—about 36 centimetres wide and 11.5 metres long[5]—and the entire bolt is used to make one kimono. The finished kimono consists of four main strips of fabric—two panels covering the body and two panels forming the sleeves—with additional smaller strips forming the narrow front panels and collar
Traditionally, kimonos are sewn by hand; even machine-made kimonos require substantial hand-stitching. Kimono fabrics are frequently hand-made and -decorated. Techniques such as yūzen dye resist are used for applying decoration and patterns to the base cloth. Repeating patterns that cover a large area of a kimono are traditionally done with the yūzen resist technique and a stencil.
A pattern with butterflies or cherry blossoms would be worn in spring. Watery designs are common during the summer. A popular autumn motif is the russet leaf of the Japanese maple; for winter, designs may include bamboo, pine trees and plum blossoms.
Kimono Parts
- Dōura : upper lining on a woman's kimono.
- Eri : collar.
- Fuki : hem guard.
- Sode : sleeve below the armhole.
- Obi : a belt used to tuck excess cloth away from the seeing public.
- Maemigoro: front main panel, excluding sleeves. The covering portion of the other side of the back, maemigoro is divided into "right maemigoro" and "left maemigoro".
- Miyatsukuchi : opening under the sleeve.
- Okumi : front inside panel on the front edge of the left and right, excluding the sleeve of a kimono. Until the collar, down to the bottom of the dress goes, up and down part of the strip of cloth. Have sewn the front body. It is also called "袵".
- Sode : sleeve.
- Sodeguchi : sleeve opening.
- Sodetsuke : kimono armhole.
- Susomawashi : lower lining.
- Tamoto : sleeve pouch.
- Tomoeri : over-collar (collar protector).
- Uraeri : inner collar.
- Ushiromigoro : back main panel, excluding sleeves, covering the back portion. They are basically sewn back-centered and consist of "right ushiromigoro" and "left ushiromigoro", but for wool fabric, the ushiromigoro consists of one piece.
Women's kimono
A woman's kimono may easily exceed US$10,000; a complete kimono outfit, with kimono, undergarments, obi, ties, socks, sandals, and accessories, can exceed US$20,000.
the typical woman's kimono outfit consists of twelve or more separate pieces that are worn, matched, and secured in prescribed ways, and the assistance of licensed professional kimono dressers may be required.
Choosing an appropriate type of kimono requires knowledge of the garment's symbolism and subtle social messages, reflecting the woman's age, marital status, and the level of formality of the occasion.
Furisode literally translates as swinging sleeves—the sleeves of furisode average between 39 and 42 inches (110 cm) in length.Furisode are the most formal kimono for unmarried women, with colorful patterns that cover the entire garment. They are usually worn at coming-of-age ceremonies (seijin shiki) and by unmarried female relatives of the bride at weddings and wedding receptions
Houmongi is the formal kimono worn by women once they are married. It might be worn to weddings or to tea ceremonies. It often has a pattern called eba, which spreads over the kimono without appearing to be disturbed by the seams through a special method of dyeing.
Tsukesage has more modest patterns that cover a smaller area—mainly below the waist—than the more formal. They may also be worn by married women.The differences is the size of the pattern, General is often used for parties, not ceremonies.
Kurotomesode a black kimono patterned only below the waistline, are the most formal kimono for married women. They are often worn by the mothers of the bride and groom at weddings. usually have five kamon printed on the sleeves, chest and back of the kimono.
Susohiki / Hikizuri is usually worn by geisha or by stage performers of the traditional Japanese dance. It is quite long, compared to regular kimono, because the skirt is supposed to trail along the floor. Susohiki literally means "trail the skirt". Where a normal kimono for women is normally 1.5–1.6 m (4.9–5.2 ft) long, a susohiki can be up to 2 m (6.6 ft) long. This is also why geisha and maiko lift their kimono skirt when walking outside, also to show their beautiful underkimono or "nagajuban".
Men's kimono
In contrast to women's kimono, men's kimono outfits are far simpler, typically consisting of five pieces, not including footwear.
Men's kimono sleeves are attached to the body of the kimono with no more than a few inches unattached at the bottom, The typical men's kimono is a subdued, dark color; black, dark blues, greens, and browns are common. Fabrics are usually matte. Some have a subtle pattern, and textured fabrics are common in more casual kimono. More casual kimono may be made in slightly brighter colors, such as lighter purples, greens and blues.
The most formal style of kimono is plain black silk with five kamon on the chest, shoulders and back. Slightly less formal is the three-kamon kimono.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
http://www.wafuku.co.uk/kimonoinfo5.htm
Dalby, Liza Crihfield. Kimono: Fashioning Culture. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1993. Reprint, Seattle, WA: University of Washington Press, 2001.Ho, Kenson, et al. Kimonos Unlimited: An Endless Creative Journey. Vancouver, Canada: INASO, 2000.
Kennedy, Alan. Japanese Costume: History and Tradition. New York: Rizzoli, 1990.
Kosode: 16th–19th Century Textiles from the Nomura Collection. New York: Kodansha International, 1985.
www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Asia/Kimono.html#ixzz3U3TSIPA4
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